在冰島,天氣永遠都不似預期,但還是要跟舊居說聲再見,然後向東峽灣區出發,坐船逃離冰島!|Finally, I said goodbye to Iceland from the spectacular Eastfjord by boat.


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前往東峽灣碼頭

在嚴重欠缺公共交通工具的冰島,好在還有汽車共乘,只是要找到從雷克雅未克出發往東部的車卻少之又少。原本希望可以先找車北上,然後再找車/截順風車/轉巴士往東部 Seydisfjordur 的渡輪碼頭,怎知在冰島一直處處碰壁的我,在最後時刻竟然出奇地幸運,找到從首都直到 Seydisfjordur 的車,後來更發現車主是居於東峽灣 Fáskrúðsfjörður 的 couchsurfing host。當他知道我的行程計劃後,更讓我在他家當了三天沙發客,使我省下住旅館的錢,他還開車帶我遊東峽灣、去 Hengifoss 瀑布健行。最後我只花了 6000ISK,都是在車費上,比原先預計要用大約 20000ISK 省很多!

什麼?原來是遊輪!

我一直以為自己是去搭渡輪,去到了 Seydisfjordur 才發現原來是郵輪!!

不過窮人始終都是窮人,不是上得了郵輪就升級了做富翁。和鐵逹尼號上的「廸卡皮奧」一樣,我只是住進了郵輪上的三等窮人艙。幽閉的六人房,不能關的門,位於比停車層還低的二樓,基本上就是住進潛水艇,一直都是睡在水底下。

不過呢,這趟郵輪之旅的價錢在冰島來說卻十分相宜,以至於我一直以為是渡輪。淡季時 155 歐元包三晚住宿和兩天的午餐,雖然都是把冷藏食品煮熱的東西,不過總算是熱食而且還可以飽肚,不想坐飛機的可以去官網看一下。

郵輪雖好,還是愛簡單

頭半段的行程是不錯的,可以坐船遊東峽灣和在法羅群島短留六小時小遊一番。只是離開法羅後,就是一整天半在一望無際的海上航行,雖然船上也有幾間收費頗貴的餐廳酒吧、免稅店和小得只有5米的游泳池可以消磨一下時間,不過就連坐的地方也不多,最後大部分時間就是瑟縮在酒吧一角,看星看海看夜濤。。。

其實這是我第一次坐郵輪,真心不算很喜歡,感覺無所事事的,看見有些人就一直在喝酒,喝到半夜還大聲吵鬧!反倒懷念起在亞馬遜河上坐船的日子,睡吊床、和當地人閒聊、看船靠岸時各人忙忙碌碌的生活百態。在什麼都沒有的船上,反而充實。

Going to Seydisfjordur by car sharing

Unlike most of the time I was in Iceland, I finally got some lucks this time. I was planning to find a car share to the north first, then find another car share/hitchhike/take a bus to Seydisfjordir in Eastfjord for taking the ferry there. But to my surprise, I got a car share offer going straight from Reykjavik to Seydisfjordir, and to top it all, the driver Nicolas was a couchsurfing host in Fáskrúðsfjörður of the Eastfjord and he let me couch surfed in his place for 3 days! I only spent 6000ISK on sharing the fuel and saved like 12000ISK for 3 nights in hostel!

It’s a cruise, not a ferry!

I thought I was going to take a ferry but turned out it’s a cruise ship! But it didn’t mean I was rich and would have a luxury journey. You know there’re poor people on extravagance cruise ship if you’ve ever watched Titanic. I was only one of those 2nd class passengers staying in 6 beds dorm below the carpark levels. Always slept under the water, like in a submarine, nothing fancy.

The good thing is the price was very friendly in Icelandic standard. It’s only 155Euros for 3 nights and 2 lunches were included. Though the food was only made from frozen package and it’s not tasty at all, it’s still a good alternative to get out of the island. Anyone who’s interested can check out their website.

Cruise maybe nice but I’d prefer a boat

The first half of the journey was quite nice. I enjoyed a lot seeing those fjords from the ship and walking around Tórshavn in Faroe Islands. But once departed from Faroe Islands, it’s just sailing on the endless sea for 34hours. There were few overpriced restaurants and bars, a duty free shop, a 5m long swimming pool on board for people to kill some times, but It’s still pretty boring.

This is my first cruise ship experience. I can’t say I like it very much. I’d prefer the boat trip on amazon, sleeping on hammock, chatting with locals, watching the busy lives of people when the boat was landing in the villages. It was more fun even there’s not much on the boat.