Don’t want to be ripped off by the overpriced tour/train? Just go to Machu Picchu on your own.
18:00 在 Cusco 的 Avenida Grau 坐前往 Ollantaytambo 的小巴 ﹣10 soles.
20:00 到 Ollantaytambo，入住應該是全鎮最便宜的旅館 Hospedaje Aclla Wasi ﹣12 soles 單人房，共用浴厠
(在 Cusco 的 Avenida Antonio Lorena 也有小巴直達 Santa Maria，車程約4小時 ﹣20 soles)
08:00 據不同的當地人稱，前往 Santa Maria 的巴士會於每天大約 10:00-14:00 經過 Ollantay 的 Plaza de Arma ﹣15 soles.
下車後繼續沿公路走，大概也是10分鐘吧，就有一輛小型開蓬貨車高速經過然後剎停給我。車上是三個由利馬前往 Santa Teresa 工作的工程人員：Javier、Carlos、Francisco。原想要先到 Santa Maria 再轉車才能到 Santa Teresa，因為到 Santa Teresa 的車根本不多，怎知這樣好運一截便直達 Santa Teresa。
Carlos 和 Francisco 都沒到過這裡，所以他們沿途看見漂亮風景便停車拍照，而且還定了工作完後到馬丘比丘，他們看起來比我這個遊客還要高興。
12:30 到 Santa Teresa，他們還請我食午餐！真的花錢坐巴士也沒這麼開心，這麼快。
吃飽後，他們便要工作了。雖然有足夠時間到 Aquas Calientes，不過我又不趕時間的，所以便找了間在菜市場附近的旅館住一晚 ﹣15 soles 連浴廁單人房，wifi，免費寄存行李。
Santa Teresa 有個有名的天然溫泉，就在鎮外約4公里外。由於這個時間只有的士前往，而我是非必要都不會坐的士的，所以便打算走過去。不過走到了河邊，便有輛私家車經過，更主動停下叫我上車，原來車主一家也是要去浸溫泉的！
這個天然溫泉是依山而建，外國遊客入場費 5 soles.
回程當然又是用走的，不過走不了兩步又有架的士停下。原來車上有另一位遊客，不介意順路免費載我一程回 Santa Teresa。今天真是順風車大好日。
10:00 在菜市場外坐 shared taxi 到 Hidroelectrica ﹣5 soles.
10:30 Hidroelectrica 火車站沿火車軌步行往 Aquas Calientes。除了步行外，還可以坐火車到 Aquas Calientes 的，不過遊客價 28美金
13:30 到 Aquas Calientes，找了間在火車軌傍近上馬丘比丘山的旅館 ﹣15 soles 連浴廁單人房
07:00 步行上馬丘比丘。坐接駁巴士的話單程要 12美金，我想除非我跛了。。。
08:30 ﹣17:30 遊馬丘比丘
馬丘比丘 + Wayna Picchu 門價 ﹣158 soles.
17:30 ﹣19:00 步行回 Aquas Calientes
Aquas Calientes 真的是什麼都貴，最便宜的應是菜市場內的 menu del dia，大約 7 soles，或在球場附近小巷的餐廳也可以找到大約 8 soles 一個套餐的，還有免費 wifi。如果想帶乾糧上馬丘比丘的話，最好就在 Santa Teresa 先買。
09:00 ﹣11:30 步行回 Hidroelectrica，然後坐小巴回 Santa Teresa ﹣5 soles.
12:00 到 Santa Teresa。
13:00 ﹣14:00 菜市場外坐 shared taxi 回 Santa Maria – 10 soles.
Santa Maria 的小巴等了一小時才開車
15:00 ﹣19:00 Santa Maria 到 Cusco ﹣18 soles.
I like traveling by myself without tour and I don’t have that much of money to spend on the luxury tourist train. Therefore, I went to Machu Picchu by public transport + hitchhiking + walking. Yes, it’s more time consuming but it’s not only the cheapest way to avoid being ripped off by those overpriced tour/train, but also it’s easy to do. You don’t need to be a superman to hike multiple days to get there. Everyone who is fit enough to walk a flat road for 2-3 hours can do it.
18:00 From Cusco, got a colectivo (mini bus) in Avenida Grau to Ollantaytambo ﹣10 soles.
20:00 Arrived Ollantaytambo, stayed in Hospedaje Aclla Wasi, probably the cheapest hospedaje (budget local accommodation) in town ﹣12 soles single room, shared bathroom
(There’s also a colectivo directly to Santa Maria from Avenida Antonio Lorena of Cusco ﹣20 soles, 4 hours)
08:00 According to different locals, the bus to Santa Maria will pass by Plaza de Arma between 10:00-14:00 ﹣15 soles.
Waiting in the small Plaza for unknown hours wasn’t really that much of fun and adventurous for me, so I walked out of town and started to hitchhike.
Less than 10mins, a colectivo stopped and gave me a lift to the next village. Another 10 mins later after I got off from the colectivo, I hitchhiked a mini truck to Santa Teresa. Javier, Carlos and Francisco were from Lima and were heading to Santa Teresa for work.
I was very lucky because there’s not so much traffic going from Ollantay to Santa Teresa. My original plan was just trying to get to Santa Maria first and probably changed to a shared taxi to Santa Teresa after. Now not only it’s free but also it’s much quicker (only 3.5 hours instead of 6) then public transport.
12:30 Arrived Santa Teresa.
Javier, Carlos and Francisco were very nice. They picked me up from the village, stopped to let me take pictures, even invited me for lunch when we arrived Santa Teresa. I am so grateful for their kindness and generosity.
Though I had enough time to go to Hidroelectrica and Aquas Calientes, I wasn’t in a hurry and wanted to spend a day in Santa Teresa. It’s a small town but there’re quite some hospedajes and I found one with a good price near the market ﹣15 soles single room, private bathroom, free wifi, free luggage storage.
There’s a natural hot spring around 4km from town. As no colectivo to go there at that time but only taxi, so I chose to walk the dusty road. Just after I walked down to the river, a private car passed by and picked me up even though I wasn’t really hitchhiking. They are a family going to the hot spring too.
The entrance for the pool is 5 soles for foreigners. The opened pools are set naturally and the water is clean and in good temperature.
After two nice hours hanging around in the pool, I headed back to Santa Teresa. A taxi stopped for me while I was walking back. A traveler was inside and he’s nice enough to give me a free ride. What a lucky day.
10:00 From outside the market, took a shared taxi to Hidroelectrica Train Station ﹣5 soles. Or you can walk 3 hours to get there.
10:30 Walked from Hidroelectrica to Aquas Calientes. You can also go by train but the price is 28 USD for foreigners.
The walk was quite easy, just walked along the railway. Some restaurants and one hospedaje are found in Hidroelectrica station.
13:30 Arrived Aquas Calientes. Stayed in a cheap hospedaje next to the rail on the west side of the town ﹣15 soles single room, private bathroom.
07:00 ﹣08:30 Walked up to Machu Picchu from Aquas Calientes for free. Or you can take a shuttle bus for 12 USD
08:30 ﹣17:30 Visited Machu Picchu
Entrance to Machu Picchu + Wayna Picchu ﹣158 soles.
17:30 ﹣19:00 Walked back to Aquas Calientes
Everything is expensive in Aquas Calientes except those menu del dia served inside the market near the river and the rail ﹣7 soles, or some small restaurants in the alleys near the football pitch for 8 soles. For snacks, like chocolate or energy bar, It’s better to stock up in Santa Teresa.
09:00 ﹣11:30 Walked back to Hidroelectrica, and took the colectivo to Santa Teresa ﹣5 soles.
12:00 Arrived Santa Teresa
13:00 ﹣14:00 Took the shared taxi to Santa Maria from outside the market ﹣10 soles.
Waited one hour in Santa Maria for the colectivo
15:00 ﹣19:00 Arrived Cusco ﹣18 soles.
I like slow traveling so I did it in 5 days. The fastest you can do is 2.5 days but it’ll be quite rush and you can’t stay too long in Machu Picchu. I suggest you spend at least 3 full days to enjoy the whole experience on a comfortable pace.
If you don’t do hitchhiking, the transportation cost is around 70 soles for return.
Do you like this way of traveling? Tell me your experience too!
Hope you have a happy and adventurous journey!